Thursday, May 10, 2001

WHO WANTS TO BE A MILL OWNER?
Down by the old mill stream, on Little River Road in Lebanon, Ted and Betty Frederick have found life at the oldest intact grist mill in Maine to their liking

By KELLEY BOUCHARD Staff Writer

Copyright © 2001 Blethen Maine Newspapers Inc.

 

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Sometimes, no matter how steamy the weather, Ted and Betty Frederick have to shut their windows because the Little River is so loud. Otherwise, they can't hear the television, let alone each other. Closing the windows doesn't help much, though, because the Little River runs right by the foundation of their house. It's always there: the steady, lulling sound of water coursing over rock.

The Fredericks live in the Olde Grist Mill on Little River Road, off Route 202. Originally from Massachusetts, the Fredericks bought the mill in 1987, relocated to Maine soon afterward and moved into the mill two years ago. It is the oldest intact grist mill in Maine and one of few old mills in the country that is privately owned and open to the public. The red clapboard building has been featured in several publications about old mills and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, along with the nearby Little River Bridge.

Like lighthouses, diners and covered bridges, old mills have developed a following and a fan club of their own. The Fredericks belong to the Society for the Preservation of Old Mills, an organization that was chartered in Maine in 1972. Fewer than half of SPOOM's 1,800 members are mill owners. The group's annual conference will be held in September in La Malbaie, Quebec.

"There's a great deal of interest in mills, especially those that are operational because there are so few," said John Lovett Jr., a SPOOM director who operates Falls Mill in Belvidere, Tenn. Lovett's complex includes an operating water-powered mill that was built in 1873, a country store, a museum and a log cabin bed-and-breakfast.

"For most people, it's nostalgia," Lovett said. "Some people like to see the water wheel turning. People with technical backgrounds enjoy seeing the antique machinery and tools. And the kids just like wading in the creek."

The Olde Grist Mill on Little River Road hasn't operated since the 1930s, but it does provide an opportunity to step back in time and see the inner workings of an old mill. The Fredericks bought the mill on a whim. Betty saw an article about it in a real estate magazine. They drove up from Plum Island on a rainy Thursday afternoon and fell in love with the property.

"You could still smell the grain, and the sound of the water was amazing," recalled Betty, 69, who was no history buff before becoming a caretaker of the mill. Built about 1774 by Joseph Hardison, the mill could produce 200 barrels of meal per day. The mill no longer operates because its dam is gone and the wooden gears, pulleys, shafting and elevator cups need refurbishing. Its undershot waterwheel was replaced by turbines long ago.

The Fredericks have left the grist mill relatively unchanged. The well-worn steps to the grinding area prove it was a busy place. The door frame is gnawed and studded with rusty nails, hammered there long ago to stop hungry horses from chewing the wood any further. Initials are carved in the hinged wooden cover of the hopper where farmers backed their wagons and unloaded their wheat, barley, rye or corn. Later, grain came by train from the Midwest.

Inside, two round and mighty granite mill stones still press together, stacked and waiting for the ghost of grain to be funneled from above. To the side are the chutes where the flour or meal would have been bagged. Displayed on the ceiling is the cover of the bin where the miller's share would be stored if the farmer couldn't pay to have his grain milled.

To the rear of the grinding area is a small room of bins and shelves that was a general store. It sold staples such as molasses and flour, overalls, school supplies and penny candy. The floor is stained black where the molasses barrel stood. Some older Lebanon residents remember visiting the general store as children. They say the whole building shook if the mill was running.

One of the last mill operators was a man named Fred Pierce. Locals say Pierce was a familiar sight around town, walking along the road with a limp - a painful reminder of day he slipped and his leg got tangled in the mill's gear works.

Connected to the grist mill is a former shingle and clapboard mill, which Ted Frederick has renovated into the couple's living quarters. That section of the mill was ready to collapse when the Fredericks purchased it. Among other things, Ted added windows, installed a septic system and shored up a section of the dry stone foundation. But most of the foundation remains remarkably sturdy, despite the shaking of the mill and the lack of mortar between its stacked, flat rocks.

Little has gone to waste during the renovation. In front of the mill, a pea stone driveway passes a sculpted garden laced with brick pathways. The bricks were taken from the chimney that the Fredericks removed from the mill to reduce the risk of fire.

As blissful as it may seem to live by an old mill stream, it has been a challenge for the Fredericks. They've done renovations bit by bit, as they've had the money. Their living quarters are a work in progress. At this point, refurbishing the mill works is just a dream.

"You have to be a millionaire to keep up a place like this, and we're on Social Security," said Ted, 68, a retired carpenter and homebuilder who sells antiques at an Arundel flea market.

The Fredericks hope to get some type of grant to help them restore the grist mill to working order. If not, they plan to do what they can to keep it standing. For the Fredericks, taking care of the mill is a chance to be a part of history. They also enjoy the people who stop by for a peek into the past. They hope others learn to value the mill as much as they do.

"Sometimes I think we were nuts to take this on," Betty Frederick said. "Maybe someday people will appreciate it."

The Olde Grist Mill is open on summer weekends, by chance and by appointment. Admission is free. For information, call 457-9220.

Staff Writer Kelley Bouchard can be contacted at 282-8229 or at:
kbouchard@pressherald.com


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